Artificial turf has matured far beyond the slick green carpet of old sports fields. Modern products blend fiber shapes, infill blends, and backing systems to deliver realistic appearance, resilient performance, and drainage that actually works in heavy rain. With that progress comes a practical question for homeowners, facility managers, and builders: should you install turf yourself, or hire a professional synthetic grass installation company? The answer depends on project type, your tolerance for manual work, the stakes if something goes wrong, and the lifespan you expect from the surface.
I have managed and overseen installations on residential lawns, pet areas, school playgrounds, rooftop terraces, and golf practice greens. The decision rarely comes down to a simple price comparison. Surface prep, base selection, drainage calculation, seam strategy, edge detailing, and infill calibration all influence the final result. Get those right, and turf earns its keep for a decade or more. Miss them, and you inherit wrinkles, puddles, odors, mites, moss, and infill migration.
This guide breaks down how I evaluate projects and the trade-offs I share with clients when they are deciding between DIY and professional artificial grass installation.
The basics most people underestimate
Artificial turf is a system, not a single product. Even if your yard is small, you still need to address grading, compaction, edging, seams, infill, and drainage. Four items make or break almost every installation, regardless of skill level.
First, subgrade preparation. Soil movement is relentless. Without a stable base, footprints depress the surface, seams creep, and water pools. For lawns in temperate climates, I target 3 to 4 inches of compacted crushed stone, sometimes more over expansive clays. Playgrounds, pet parks, and driveways supporting traffic need deeper base layers or engineered pads. DIY crews often skip geotextile fabric under the base, which prevents subgrade fines from pumping up into the stone. Skipping fabric saves money in week one and costs money in year two.
Second, drainage mapping. Turf drains through the backing, but water still needs a path to leave the area. I look at slope, downspouts, irrigation overspray, and hardscape interfaces. If water has nowhere to go, odors and algae bloom underneath. On tight city lots, I add trench drains or perforated pipe, but only after checking code setbacks and discharge rules. For rooftop installations, the stakes jump. The roof membrane must remain intact, and drainage has to tie into scuppers or internal drains without trapping water.
Third, seam execution. Most rolls are 13 to 15 feet wide. Unless your area is tiny, you will have seams. Good seams are invisible because the grain direction, backing tension, and adhesive line are controlled. Sloppy seams telegraph immediately in low sun angles. People often overuse nails across seams or run the grain in opposing directions, which creates a zipper effect.
Fourth, infill selection and dosing. Infill supports the fibers so they do not mat, manages heat, and adds ballast. Silica sand, rounded quartz, TPE, EPDM, and organic blends behave differently in sun, freeze-thaw, and high-use areas. I typically use 1 to 3 pounds per square foot, scaled to pile height and use case. No infill is a marketing promise most lawns regret.
These basics underscore the DIY versus pro decision. If you enjoy and respect this type of work, a small lawn or dog run can be a satisfying weekend project. If the thought of plate compaction and seam tape stresses you out, hiring an installer of astroturf for landscape projects is probably the right move.
Cost reality: what numbers truly include
Sticker prices vary widely by region and scope. A simple residential lawn with quality materials and standard access usually lands between 8 to 18 dollars per square foot for professional installation, including base, turf, and infill. Premium turf, deep excavation, and complex edging can push that to 20 to 28 dollars. Rooftop and golf greens are different animals, often exceeding 30 dollars due to specialized components.
DIY material packages for a basic yard often pencil out around 4 to 9 dollars per square foot, excluding tool rental and disposal. Add compactors, a saw, wheelbarrows, skips or dumpsters, seam tape and glue, nails or staples, infill, and edging. If you do not have easy access to the site, expect delivery surcharges and extra labor time. Disposal also adds up, especially if you are removing sod and soil. I ask homeowners to budget contingency, because one buried concrete footing or tree root system can quickly eat the apparent savings.
A subtle point: warranty coverage. Manufacturers often condition their warranties on correct installation practices. A DIY job may void certain claims, especially if the issue traces back to base depth, infill levels, or seam adhesives. Professional installers typically stand behind both workmanship and materials. When I price a job, that support is part of the value and needs to be weighed against pure cost.
Where DIY makes sense
I have seen excellent homeowner installs where the scope aligns with manageable complexity, site access is easy, and expectations are reasonable. Three scenarios tend to fit.
Small residential lawns with straightforward shapes, good access for base material, and limited obstacles can go smoothly. If the area is under 300 square feet and you can avoid seams by orienting the roll correctly, the risk drops sharply. A gentle grade toward a clear drainage path, plus a perimeter that accepts composite bender board or steel edging, keeps details simple.
Pet corners or narrow side yards that serve as dog runs benefit from DIY attention. Owners can overbuild the base, add Zeolite or similar odor-absorbing infill, and schedule rinses. Pet park artificial grass installation at scale for a multi-dog facility is more involved, but a single-dog family run between a house and fence can be a weekend job with good planning.
Temporary event areas and removable mats on patios live at the easy end of the spectrum. I still recommend proper edging to avoid trip points, but you can minimize excavation and opt for thinner base layers if heavy use is not expected.
The common thread is control. When you own the schedule and can take your time on compaction and seam practice, a DIY result can satisfy for years. The biggest mistake I see is rushing to lay turf before the base has been shaped and compacted in multiple passes. If you can discipline the prep, you can earn the savings.
Where professional help pays for itself
Not all surfaces are created equal. On some projects, the complexity, risk, or performance demands justify professional installation.
Installing artificial turf golf putting green surfaces requires specialized base shaping, multiple turf types, and precise infill calibration. A typical home green uses a short, dense putting surface over a firm base with micro-contours for break, paired with a taller fringe. The base needs to be laser-screeded or at least screed-boarded with a consistent fall, then rolled to a uniform firmness. Cup placement, seam orientation, and the transitional cut between fringe and green matter. Achieving a true roll and holding speed between 9 to 11 on a Stimp meter at home is realistic only with careful build-up and grooming. DIY greens often end up too slow or uneven, then owners rip them out a season later.
Installing artificial grass to playground areas introduces safety surfacing standards. Even if turf replaces mulch, the assembly must meet fall height requirements. That may mean adding shock pads under the turf, using specific infills, and retaining the edges to prevent lip formation. Seam exposure is hazardous around high-activity zones like slide exits and swings. Pros understand impact attenuation targets and can provide compliance documentation.
Installation of synthetic turf to rooftop terraces demands expertise in waterproofing compatibility, load calculations, and floating systems. Roofs use membranes, insulation, and protection boards with specific manufacturer rules. Trapping water under turf can rot wood and overload drains. Most rooftops benefit from an open-grid drainage layer beneath the turf, along with perimeter restraint that does not penetrate membranes. I will not place turf on a roof without confirming structural load allowances for saturated assemblies and local wind uplift requirements. A DIY misstep here can void roof warranties and cause expensive leaks.
Large sloped lawns, intricate borders, and mixed hardscape interfaces benefit from experienced hands. If you have multiple trees, utility lines, or existing irrigation to modify, coordinating the trades plus the turf install is more efficient with a seasoned crew.
Materials and specifications that matter
When buyers compare turf, they often focus on pile height and color. Those are part of the story but not the whole story.
Backing systems determine dimensional stability and drainage. Polyurethane backings resist creep under heat better than latex in hot climates, though both can work when paired with proper anchoring. Permeable backings with hole perforations can drain 20 to 60 inches per hour, sometimes more. For pet-heavy areas, I prefer backings that allow vertical flow across the full surface rather than only at punched holes. When odors are a concern, a faster flush helps.
Fiber shape and denier influence resilience. C-shaped, S-shaped, or ribbed monofilaments spring back better after compression, while flat fibers can look real but mat more quickly without enough infill. For high-use lawns, I look for a face weight above 50 ounces per square yard. For fringe on putting greens, taller, softer fibers can help hold an approach shot and frame the green.
Infill choices are situational. Rounded silica sand is universal and cost-effective. For heat reduction on exposed patios or rooftops, coated sands and TPE blends can drop surface temperature by a noticeable margin during peak sun. For pets, adding an odor-absorbing layer beneath standard sand helps, but only if you also design for robust drainage and regular rinsing. Playground systems often require specific infills paired with shock pads to pass testing.
Edging and restraint keep everything in place over time. Composite bender board, steel edging, or concrete curbing provide a clean line to pin against. On rooftops or over concrete, adhesive perimeters and mechanical terminations shift to match the substrate. In windy zones, uplift resistance depends on ballast and secure edges. I pay attention to driveway interfaces, stepping stones, and drain grates. Anywhere feet land or water concentrates deserves extra detailing.
The installation sequence at a glance
A good install reads like choreography. I always start with the finished grade in mind and work backward. The finish is only as strong as the layer below it, so each step earns its place.
- Site evaluation and plan: check drainage patterns, locate utilities, measure roll layout to minimize seams, and confirm access for materials. Excavation and subgrade: remove organic material to a consistent depth, add geotextile, then import and compact crushed stone in 2-inch lifts, establishing slope. Perimeter restraint: set edging flush to planned finished height and secure anchors at tight intervals so the turf will not creep. Turf placement and seams: relax rolls in sun to reduce tension, align grain, cut factory edges, and bond seams with seaming tape and adhesive while protecting the fibers from glue. Finishing and infill: power broom to lift fibers, spread infill in lifts, broom again, and check edges, drains, and transitions for a safe, even finish.
That list reads short, but each line contains hours of focused work. An experienced crew can transform a yard in one or two days because each person knows their lane. A DIY team might spread it over two or three weekends. Neither is wrong, but each has different failure risks and recovery options if weather interrupts the schedule.
Special considerations by use case
Lawns for family use tend to value a balance of appearance and durability. I choose turf with mixed fiber tones and a curled thatch layer that hides infill, then build a base that can handle chairs and moderate play. If irrigation used to be present, I cap unused lines but keep a hose bib nearby for rinsing. A seasonal power-brooming and top-up of infill extends life.
Pet areas revolve around hygiene. A well-vented base and fast-draining backing, coupled with a proactive rinse schedule and odor-control infill, produce a surface that does not linger with ammonia smells. If a client has several large dogs, I may add a subsurface drain line and recommend a hose-off two or three times a week. I avoid tall pile heights here because shorter fibers release hair and solids more easily. For a dedicated pet park artificial grass installation, expect more robust sanitary design, including hard plumbing to a drain and an access plan for quarterly deep cleans.
Playgrounds prioritize impact performance and seam safety. I like modular shock pads under the turf for predictable fall ratings. Seams must be outside high-traffic zones or triple bonded. Infill needs to be stable and non-abrasive, and perimeter edges cannot present trip lips as the base settles. Inspectors often ask for test data, so keep the product sheets and installation records.
Golf putting greens are built for speed and trueness, not necessarily for bare-foot comfort. The base is stiffer, the infill is finer, and the surface is groomed to a target speed. If you want chipping areas, plan fringe width and consider a small collar with denser infill so balls sit up. Reaching cup sleeves without disturbing the base takes care. DIYers sometimes bury the cups too deep or leave them proud; both interrupt putts.
Rooftops and balconies elevate the importance of assembly weight, drainage, and fire behavior. A typical turf assembly with drainage mat and infill can weigh 4 to 8 pounds per square foot dry, more when saturated. Check structural allowances and membrane warranties. Use separation layers compatible with the roof material, and leave inspection paths to drains. When grilling nearby, include spark mats or non-combustible borders. Installation of synthetic turf to rooftop spaces is one of the top cases where I recommend a professional team, ideally one that coordinates with the roofer.
Climate and site quirks that influence decisions
Local conditions dictate many choices. In hot desert climates, heat build-up becomes a comfort and safety issue. Lighter infills and reflective fiber pigments help but do not negate the physics. Shade sails and strategic planting can reduce surface temperatures by double-digit degrees.
In freeze-thaw regions, base selection and compaction matter even more. Angular stone with fines locked by compaction resists heave. Avoid soft, round aggregates that migrate under repeated cycles. Correct slope and open drains prevent ice lenses from forming under the turf.
Coastal environments deliver salt mist, high winds, and sand. Edging and anchoring go from optional to mandatory. Backings with UV-stable coatings and corrosion-resistant fasteners extend service life. Sand infiltration from nearby beaches can change infill levels over time, so plan for periodic grooming.
Shaded, damp sites invite moss and algae. I keep canopy pruned for airflow, select turf with good drainage, and schedule twice-yearly cleaning with mild cleaners appropriate for turf. Avoid household bleach without confirming compatibility, as it can degrade fibers and backing.
What a professional brings beyond labor
Clients often assume they are paying for muscle. They are also paying for foresight, specialized tools, and speed under pressure. A pro crew carries plate compactors that hit the right amplitude, laser levels for grade checks, turf cutters that leave clean edges, drop spreaders that lay infill at consistent rates, and power brooms sized for the project. They also bring a catalog of mistakes already made elsewhere, which is a decisive advantage.
Coordination is another benefit. On projects involving irrigation adjustments, concrete paths, or drainage tie-ins, a synthetic grass installation company can stage work so trades do not trample finished surfaces. If rain hits mid-install, they know how to protect the base and resume without starting over.
Warranty support and documentation help resale value. When a property changes hands, a professional invoice and product datasheets answer buyer questions before they become negotiation leverage.
When to blend approaches
You do not have to choose pure DIY or pure professional. Some of my favorite outcomes came from hybrid strategies. Homeowners handle demo and disposal to save money and learn the site, then call us for base work, seams, and final finish. Or we install the putting green core and fringe, while the owner completes the surrounding lawn on their own schedule.
For budget-sensitive projects, phasing can help. Start with the core areas that demand technical execution, such as installing artificial turf golf putting green surfaces or the child play zone, and leave ornamental zones for later. If you are converting a broad landscape, bring in installers of astroturf for landscape areas where grade transitions meet patios and driveways, and DIY the back corners where performance standards are lower.
Red flags that argue against DIY
If any of these appear during your planning, think hard about hiring a pro:
- The area requires multiple seams that intersect or bend around irregular shapes, such as kidney pools or tree wells. You are building over a roof or waterproof deck and cannot confirm the membrane type, age, or load allowances. Local regulations demand impact-rated playground surfacing and documentation. The site shows chronic drainage problems or evidence of expansive clay movement. You have limited access that prevents delivery of base material and removal of spoils without mechanical equipment.
Even experienced DIYers underestimate the time penalty from poor access. Moving ten tons of base stone by wheelbarrow through a side gate is not impossible, but it is a different project than a front-yard replacement with driveway staging.
A candid look at long-term maintenance
Turf reduces mowing and watering, but it is not maintenance-free. Expect to groom the surface a few times a year with a stiff broom or power broom. Top off infill where high-use paths appear. Rinse pet areas regularly, especially in warmer months. Weed pressure through seams and edges is real but manageable with pre-emergent herbicides and good edge design. If you live under shedding trees, plan to blow debris frequently so it does not compost into the thatch.
Professional installs tend to age more gracefully because the base is firm, the seams remain tight, and the infill is correctly dosed from the start. DIY installs can match that with diligence, but the tolerance for minor mistakes is smaller. A seam that looks fine on day one may open under a summer of expansion and foot traffic. That is fixable, yet it takes time and sometimes new adhesive lines.
How to choose a contractor, if you go that route
Reputation and specificity matter more than logo polish. Ask for recent references that match your use case: installing artificial grass to playground areas, pet-heavy yards, rooftop terraces, or greens. Visit a completed project that has at least one year of weather on it. Look at edges, seams, and drainage paths. Ask who on the crew will be on site, not just who sold the job. A good synthetic grass installation company will talk you out of unnecessary extras and explain their base design without jargon.
Compare not just price, but scope. Does the bid include disposal, edging, base depth, shock pad where needed, and infill type by weight? Are they sealing seams with tape and adhesive rather than line-nailing? Do they test compaction? Many credible installers will walk you through pile height and face weight trade-offs and will not push the tallest, plushest turf unless your use profile fits it.
A practical decision framework
By the time you have sketched the area and considered access, drainage, and use, the path usually becomes obvious. If your project is a small, simple lawn with good access, patience, and no special performance needs, DIY can deliver a rewarding result at a lower cash cost. If your project involves safety standards, water management complexity, high-precision play, or sensitive waterproofing, professional artificial grass installation pays for itself in predictability and longevity.
The middle ground is common. Do what you can well, then bring in a pro for the parts where experience carries the day. Whether you are turning a patchy yard into a low-maintenance lawn, building a backyard practice green, upgrading a school play Artificial turf installation company area, or planning the installation of synthetic turf to rooftop living space, match the approach to the consequences. Smart turf projects respect the details that no one notices when they are right and everyone notices when they are wrong.