The first time a homeowner watches a crew swap a patchy, thirsty lawn for a pristine green surface in a single day, it feels like a magic trick. The truth is more methodical. The transformation relies on measurements, base engineering, edge detailing, and a dozen small decisions that separate a yard that looks great on day one from a surface that still looks crisp after five summers and a week of heavy rain. Professional installers of astroturf for landscape know that the grass you see is only the top layer of a system. That system begins with the soil and ends with choices about infill, seams, and drainage that fit the site and the way the space will be used.
This guide unpacks how artificial grass installation really works, where the craft matters most, and what to expect in special cases like rooftops, pet areas, playgrounds, and backyard putting greens.
What a good installer sees during the first walk-through
Before anyone touches a shovel, a seasoned synthetic grass installation company studies how water moves across the site, how the sun tracks, and how people use the space. A lawn that hosts kids’ soccer on weekends needs a stiffer blade profile and more seam reinforcement than a decorative courtyard. A north-facing side yard shaded by a fence might develop algae if it drains poorly. A yard that slopes toward a house requires drainage planning and sometimes a small French drain.
I bring a string line, a laser level for slopes over long runs, a soil probe, and a willingness to kneel in the dirt. Compaction is the silent killer of turf systems, so the existing soil’s texture matters. Clay expands and contracts, and unless you plan for it, a dry summer can turn a smooth surface into a washboard. Sandy soil drains well but risks settling if the base isn’t properly locked.
On a typical suburban yard, I draw a quick site sketch, mark sprinkler heads, utility lids, roots that will heave, and any tree drip lines that deserve a permeable border. I also note constraints such as narrow side gates that dictate roll width choices and seam layout. Those early choices determine whether your artificial grass installation looks seamless or shows a faint telltale line at noon in August.
Material choices that actually matter
Synthetic turf is not one thing. The pile height, fiber shape, backing, and infill create the performance you feel underfoot. For everyday landscapes, piles typically run from 1.25 to 2 inches. Shorter fibers brush more easily and stay upright; taller piles look lush but need more infill and maintenance brushing. S-shaped or W-shaped blades resist matting better than flat fibers. Backings vary between polyurethane and latex, each with different flexibility and water behavior. A robust secondary coating and stitch rate help the turf hold up under traffic and temperature cycles.
Infill is the unsung workhorse. Silica sand adds ballast and controls fiber posture. Coated sand, zeolite, and antimicrobial blends help with odor control in pet areas. Rubber infill increases cushion but can raise surface temperatures, which may not be ideal in hot climates. For most homes, a mix of rounded silica sand over a base layer of deodorizing infill strikes a good balance.
Edge restraint is the last material most homeowners never see, yet it holds the shape of the installation. Bender board, composite edging, or simple nailer boards tied to concrete with Tapcons all work, but each fits a specific edge condition. Where turf meets decomposed granite, I prefer a low-profile composite edge that won’t telegraph via a visible ridge.
A site prepared like a sports field, scaled to your yard
Demolition and excavation set the stage. Crews remove the existing sod and organic matter to a depth that can accept a stable aggregate base. In my area, that means 3 to 4 inches for pedestrian use, sometimes more in heavy clay or where we expect wheel loads, like a mower cart or small utility vehicle. Sprinklers get capped, drip lines protected, and low-voltage wiring located. The subgrade is compacted to around 90 to 95 percent of maximum density. If that number sounds abstract, it shows up in how the ground reacts to a heel strike: solid, not spongy.
The base layer usually uses a 3/4-inch crushed rock with fines, sometimes called class II road base. It compacts hard yet allows water to move. Over that, we place a finer layer, like 1/4-inch minus, to create the level and smooth plane the turf will mirror. If you see ruts or humps in the base, you will see them in the finished surface. I keep a 10-foot straightedge on the truck for this reason. Every low spot gets filled and compacted again. Water is used to help the fines knit; a light hose-down between passes locks the particles without turning the base into mud.
Drainage planning falls into two buckets. On ground-level landscapes, water must pass through the turf backing, into the base, then toward a positive outfall. A 1 to 2 percent slope usually does the job. On flat patios, I add subtle crown or shallow creases to nudge water. Where an area backs up to a house, a perforated pipe wrapped in fabric might carry water to a safe exit. On rooftops and balconies, the installation of synthetic turf to rooftop requires a completely different mindset. You cannot trap water on a membrane. Instead, we use drainage panels or pedestals beneath the turf to maintain airflow, protect the waterproofing, and ensure water moves unimpeded to scuppers.
Seams, direction, and sunlight
Roll width dictates seam locations. Most turf comes in 13 to 15 foot widths. A professional installer plans seams where they disappear naturally, such as along a path or inside a planting arc, rather than through the middle of a main view. The grain direction also matters. Fibers lean slightly from the factory. If two pieces meet with different lean direction, the seam shows even when cut and glued perfectly. On a large lawn we typically orient all pieces the same way, then shift seam lines to achieve that alignment.
Good seam work is quiet work: trimming the selvage, cutting both pieces with a sharp backing blade against a straight edge, tucking the edges into a tight butt joint, and bonding over seam tape with a moisture-cured urethane adhesive. In hot weather, I allow the rolls to relax before trimming to avoid a later buckle. In cold weather, I leave a whisper of expansion room at perimeter edges so the midday sun does not cause ripples.
The moment turf becomes a surface
Once the turf is placed, we set the edges. Along hardscape, that can mean a bead of urethane adhesive. Along soil, we use a combination of nails or staples and an edge restraint that holds shape over the long term. Nails alone, driven into loose base, do not survive freeze-thaw or summer heat. I prefer to space fasteners 4 to 6 inches on center along curves, a bit wider on straight runs. After perimeter and seams are secure, we broom the fibers upright with a power broom. Then comes infill, spread and worked into the fibers in multiple passes to avoid clumps.
The final pass with the broom reveals whether the base prep succeeded. If you see ripples, it is time to pause, pull back a section, and fix the base. A crew that does not back up here is a crew that will give you a beautiful problem in three months.
Special case: pet park artificial grass installation
Pets change the script. Odor and hygiene drive the design. I design pet zones to drain faster than the surrounding landscape. That starts with a free-draining base, often with additional drainage channels and, in some cases, a shallow underdrain tied to a gravel sump. I avoid rubber infill in pet areas. Instead, I use a deodorizing mineral infill like zeolite under a top dressing of rounded silica sand. The backing matters too. Perforated backings work for most yards, but some manufacturers offer fully permeable backings that allow water to flow through the entire backing fabric rather than only through punch holes. In a multi-dog household, that extra flow capacity helps.
Maintenance is more frequent. A hose-down every week or two, a quarterly enzyme treatment during hot months, and vigilant solid waste removal keep odors under control. I also recommend designing a nearby rinse station and a discreet storage spot for a stiff-bristle brush. Fences should sit slightly above the turf, not squashing it, to allow airflow at the perimeter.
Special case: installing artificial grass to playground
Play areas are judged by safety, not only appearance. The system beneath the turf must meet or exceed fall-height requirements for the highest play deck or monkey bar. There are two common approaches: a poured-in-place shock pad or interlocking foam panels rated for critical fall heights. Over time, the impact layers must maintain their resilience, so we avoid cheap foam that crushes permanently.
The turf itself should carry an appropriate fire rating and a fiber that tolerates abrasion from frequent sliding and crawling. We use a lower pile, tighter stitch, and often a heat-resistant formulation to reduce skin temperature. Seams in high-traffic zones, such as at the bottom of a slide, receive extra reinforcement. Infill selection leans toward coated sand products that do not migrate easily and are non-abrasive. The edges around equipment footings are flashed cleanly to prevent tripping hazards. Budget a bit more time for playground installs. Every penetration and cutout around posts and brackets demands careful templating and a patient stretch and glue process.
Special case: installing artificial turf golf putting green
A good backyard green is a conversation piece and a skill builder. It also requires a different build than a landscape lawn. Instead of a deep, soft base, we aim for a firm, true plane with carefully planned breaks. I like a 3/8-inch minus aggregate, compacted hard, with a top layer of stone dust that can be laser-screeded to tight tolerances. For the cup locations, we set PVC sleeves anchored into the base, dead plumb and at consistent depth.
The turf is a short pile, often between 0.5 and 0.75 inch, with a dense stitch that, once sand-infilled, rolls true. Fringe turf around the green creates a visual frame and gives you somewhere to chip from. Infill matters more here than almost anywhere. The first passes use clean, dry silica sand brushed in layers until the surface speed reaches the target stimp. A typical backyard green might run at 9 to 10 on a stimp meter unless the client wants tournament-fast speeds, which require meticulous leveling and more infill. Breaks should be subtle. Overly dramatic slopes look fun but get old fast when every six-footer drifts three cu